Edit: I'm adding this note to the original post which was originally published 12/20/13. Since then, I've shared this post a couple of times on the TGK fb page and it has been pinned on Pinterest so many times, I can't even believe it. Additonally, this post has been viewed about 7K times. I know Grandma would be thrilled beyond belief to be a "internet celebrity" no matter how minor.
I've been thinking about my Grandma a lot recently. I think it is because it is the holiday season and that was when she was in her element. She loved to entertain; she was famous for it. She and my grandfather, Po Po, held a beyond fabulous cocktail party every Christmas Eve. Everyone from the closest of friends to the most distant relative was invited and all would stop in for a drink at the bar and a sample of the foods from the sumptuous buffet.
As a child the anticipation of going there was immeasurable. I would dress in a one of a kind party dress made by my mother (a memorable one was floor-length plaid taffeta with an organza pinafore overlay); my impossibly long hair twisted into a bun on the top of my head or in the classic two-pony do. My siblings (older-than-I-stair-step-adolescents) would be dressed in some coordinated outfits (until they revolted against my mother). My glamorous mother would have her copper hair done up in some remarkable 70's do with tuxedo ruffled bodysuit blouse and floor-length velveteen skirt. My father, Honey, with his movie-star good looks would be in fabulous slacks and turtleneck (and in later years starched jeans and western shirt). Once dressed, we'd pile into the Cutlass Supreme and head across town with Christmas carols playing on the radio and the whole city ablaze with Christmas lights. We would arrive at my grandparents' house and be met by Grandma's flocked Christmas tree covered in red bows and jewel box birds in her front living room window. My grandfather, Po Po, would be holding court from behind the bar and ensuring that no one's glass was ever empty - especially his own.The sounds of laughter and music and merriment spilling out of the house and into the street.
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None of us, nor the lights of the entire city, could outshine the hostess. My grandmother exuded a joie de vivre that I covet - she never seemed to be stressed or under the gun, and always had a laugh and a smile on her lips. She was saucy and had a flamboyant elegance that could carry off the most dramatic of fashion choices: floor length velvet capes, a sheer jewel-toned peignoir over a solid silk gown, sequined tops with palazzo pants, and the shoes. Oh lord, the shoes. Always, always fabulous. This woman was not just a showpiece who hired everything done leaving her to flit around. She offered up quite a smorgasbord of items with no real rhyme or reason as modern party planning might require. She prepared every morsel herself as these were the days before one was able to buy a bag of pre-made meatballs or chicken wings at the local wholesale club store. Her most well-known items were Italian Meatballs, potato salad, pralines and pecan tarts. But, my particular favorite was the fried chicken drumettes. She would cut the wings and serve only that first joint that looks like a little drumstick. She saved the other two parts for chicken stock or some other preparation. The crispy crunchy coating was delicious and the diminutive size of the item made my child-mind wonder about what tiny chickens they must have been.
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Always on the table to go with that chicken and the ham as well, was a dish of one of my Grandmother's favorites and one of mine too. Until today when I was rifling through her recipe journals searching for things I can use at my own events this season, I had forgotten about it, but once I saw the name, Jezebel Sauce, this whole flood of memories were triggered and I went to researching the history of this sauce.
According to Ned Hemard in Remembering New Orleans History, Culture and Traditions. "One might find it odd that this sauce is named after a headstrong woman in the Old Testament who was thrown out of a window and consequently eaten by dogs. Jezebel, a Phoenician queen, was as an assertive woman vilified for thousands of years because she did not let men dominate her. It was for this trait that a popular 1938 American dramatic film was entitled Jezebel. Perhaps the sauce was named “Jezebel” for being (like the headstrong
New Orleans woman in the film) assertive, as well." While the earliest recipe in print for Jezebel Sauce was October 26, 1958, An earlier San Antonio Light article by Mary Lee Swan, May 21, 1939, mentions “Fruit Horseradish Sauce” but there is no description of the ingredients. In 1967 this recipe was featured in almost all the nation’s newspapers during the winter holidays. None of the articles offered a factual origin story.
Fruity and sweet with a punch from both mustard and horseradish and punctuated with black pepper, it truly is a perfect accompaniment for chicken and ham. Additionally, you'll find it in many a Southern home as an hors d'oeuvre poured over cream cheese and served with crackers. It is easy to make and seems much more ambitious than it truly is. A quick sauce to make, it requires no canning/processing as long as you keep it refrigerated. It would be a perfect homemade gift to spoon into small jars and give as a hostess gift, etc.
Grandma's Jezebel Sauce
1 18 oz jar apple jelly
1 18 oz jar pineapple preserves
2 Tbsp dried mustard powder
5 Tbsp prepared horseradish (yes, that's tablespoons - I wasn't kidding about this being assertive. If you prefer a less sharp flavor, cut this to 3 Tbsp)
~1 Tbsp cracked black pepper
Put all ingredients in a bowl; mix well. Spoon in to (a) jar(s) and refrigerate until use.
(This will make about 2 pints of sauce - which is enough for a little gift giving and saving some to go with your Christmas ham or to pour over that block of cream cheese!)
See? Simple.
What is so amazing about foods, and scents is how they have a special place in your memory bank and can elicit such a flood of emotions, hurtling you back in time and reminding you of the fabulous special people in your life and the fun times that you spent with them. My wish for you this holiday season is to create life-long memories with and for your family and friends. That's what I hope to do and will be sure to have some Jezebel Sauce in honor of my saucy Grandma to spice things up.
Happy Holidays and Happy Cooking!
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